I view Irish pubs in America as basically falling into one of two categories: American Irish pub and Irish-American pub. Now you, loyal reader, may look at this distinction as a particular fine bit of hair-splitting, but I assure you that there is a discernable difference. To me, an American Irish pub seeks to recreate the look and feel of the traditional pub in Ireland. I call it the “Cohan’s effect.” For those of you who don’t know (and shame on ye if ya don’t!) Cohan’s is the name of the local pub that features prominently in the 1952 John Wayne film The Quiet Man; director John Ford’s love letter to his ancestral homeland of Ireland. In the movie, Cohan’s exemplifies what most Americans envision a typical Irish pub to look like: dark wood, roaring fireplace, tranquil locals sipping pints of stout while “talking a little treason.” All in all, Cohan’s in The Quiet Man represents an idyllic and idealized version of an Irish pub that has taken root in the minds of several generations of Americans of Irish heritage.
The reason I mention the two distinct versions of Irish pubs commonly seen in the USA is that two of the best Irish pubs in Delaware almost perfectly embody the two different types in question. Also, the two pubs in question are within a few miles of each other in the Wilmington area.
Catherine Rooney’s is a definite Cohan’s type American Irish pub; it seeks, in ways both large and small, to replicate a pub from the old sod. Rooney’s hits all of the classic notes: dark wood bar and paneling, cozy fireplace, soccer games on the TV (Notre Dame football still takes precedence on fall Saturdays, this is America after all). Rooney’s could easily be a garish parody of an Irish pub, except for the fact that the place was obviously constructed with a strong respect for the Irish pub tradition. The owners are of Irish descent, so the bar is not some exercise in cheap, commercial sentiment. There is plenty of Irish bric-a-brac: pictures of pubs from the old country, plaques with traditional Irish sayings, statues of leprechauns, but it all feels genuine. There is also a nice mural of one wall honoring those who serve and have served the city of Wilmington in the police and fire departments (of course many were/are Irish-Americans). Rooney’s obviously strives mightily to mirror the relaxing, socialable atmosphere of Cohan’s. What makes Catherine Rooney’s such a terrific place is that it succeeds in its goals. The bar is an enjoyable place to have a meal or to just have a few drinks, alone or with friends. The craic hangs easy in the air and a welcoming aura permeates the place. My only quibble is that the Irish whiskey selection is not what it should be. On my last visit, Rooney’s offered 7 Irish whiskies, when I know that there are at least 15-16 available for on-premise sale in Delaware. They have more Scotch for sale then Irish whiskey, and some of it is higher dollar, aged Scotch whiskey. Why no higher-end single malt or 15-18 year old Irish whiskey for us enthusiasts? Aside from the underwhelming whiskey selection, I give Catherine Rooney’s high marks as an Irish pub.
Just a few miles away from Catherine Rooney’s American Irish pub is the flip side of the coin, the Irish American pub, Mulrooney’s. Now, you may ask, what is the difference between these two places? Why is Paddy belaboring the point, playing a rousing game of split-the-hair semantics? To me this difference is an important point, a distinction with a difference. While Catherine Rooney’s is a prototypical American Irish Pub, AIP for short hereafter, a true exemplar of the Cohan’s ideal, Mulrooney’s is a different animal. While Rooney’s harkens back to the old country, Mulrooney’s is very much a creature of America. Mulrooney’s is the kind of place that could be just another corner dive sports bar, with the well-worn 50-year-old floor and the decades-out-of-date interior. (Not that there’s anything wrong with that, I like a well-aged tavern with some scruffy character). But the numerous Irish adornments make the place more than just a neighborhood watering hole. Mulrooney’s is both distinctly Irish and unmistakably American. The Irish accents are many: a collection of leprechaun figurines on a shelf behind the bar (right next to the shelf of Irish whiskey), the well-aged Notre Dame posters and pennants, the road signs pointing to major Irish cities, noting the distance in miles from America (e.g. Tippearey 3204 miles east). Mulrooney’s has an old feel to it, and the same can be said of the Irish tchotchkes that adorn the walls. The Irish character of the bar feels like a natural progression, something that has been built up over time. Mulrooney’s doesn’t have the slapped together feel of a newly opened pub; with all of the Irish posters and bric-a-brac purchased from some specialty decoration company.
Mulrooney’s also has a very real feel to it; given that it is located in a rather dodgy part of town. The pub/package store is located under an overpass leading from Wilmington to Elsmere; on a virtual dead-end street. For an old school Irish pub, I think this is more the norm than many people may realize. The original Irish-American pubs were watering holes for working class immigrants and their first-generation offspring. Naturally, these places are going to be located in the unglamorous parts of town. But for those with an adventurous spirit and an unpretentious self-confidence, seeking out these diamonds in the rough is worth the effort. A place like Mulrooney’s has a very respectable take-me-as-I-am quality; a gritty, working-class likeability that should appeal to those who like some character in a bar.
Now that I’ve established Mulrooney’s bona fides as far as décor goes, you are probably curious how the place scores on my more important selection-o-meter. The answer is; surprisingly well. When I first dropped in on Mulrooney’s on Saint Patrick’s Days a few years back, I did not expect much from this rather modest-looking place. I was pleasantly surprised to see an Irish whiskey selection that ran about 8-9 bottles strong. One of the guys I was with was pleased and surprised that they offered Smithwicks on draft. I have enjoyed a variety of Irish whiskies there that I have not found in other so-called Irish pubs in the area. I suspect being connected to a liquor store allows the owners to offer a wider selection of booze. Whatever the reason, I’m grateful that Mulrooney’s puts out a fine spread of Irish whiskey, even if there my not be much demand for it. Irish whiskey is a growing spirit category, but it is coming up from a very low sales baseline in this country. Being in Delaware, which is not exactly the home of broad and diverse liquor demand, the problem is doubly compounded with regard to uisce beatha. I plan to write more about the state of Irish whiskey in America in a future post.
The Scorecard: Catherine Rooney’s:
Selection: I have pointed out the lack of new Irish whiskey on the back bar before, and they could easily offer more, given how popular they are. They also have the big 3 Irish beers on tap: Guinness, Harp, and Smithwicks. This is my biggest complaint about the place, but it is also the easiest for them to rectify.
Atmosphere: They take great pains to create the warm, inviting atmosphere of a Cohan’s-type pub. It’s obvious that the owners have a great affection and respect for Irish-Americans. There are plenty of references to notable Irish people and events: in Ireland, America in general, and Wilmington in particular.
Craic: Rooney’s always seems to have it, to varying degrees. It’s comfortable place to have a quiet lunch, or a drink or two. They have a lively happy hour, with a good mix of people. Even the late night crowd is festive and relatively hassle-free. It seems like a good time can always be had there, no matter the day or time. I haven’t met anyone yet who won’t agree to meet there.
Service: The service is usually very good, and a recent group lunch there was a top-notch experience. The bartenders know their stuff and are courteous and helpful. Occasionally, you’ll get a semi-clueless server or some surliness from a bartender, but overall the staff is solid.
Overall grade: B+
The Scorecard: Mulrooney’s
Selection: Good. They seem to have a new Irish whiskey offering on the shelf on a fairly regular basis. I’ve been able to try stuff there for the first time that I haven’t seen offered by the glass anywhere else. The bar also offers the big 3 Irish beers on draft.
Atmosphere/Craic: As I mentioned before, Mulrooney’s is a local, blue-collar type place with a low-key appeal. It’s not a dive, but it definitely isn’t sleek and sexy either. The crowd is laid-back and regular, and you certainly don’t have to worry about dealing with dolled-up plastic girls and blowout sporting dudes working the latest AX fashion. It’s a non-pretentious place to grab a relaxing drink. A place for grown-ups, not club-hopping kids.
Service: Polite and prompt whenever I’ve been there, no complaints. Although it’s probably not the place for the overly finicky bar customer. Don’t come in asking for a wine list or a tapas menu; I’d be the first to laugh you out the door.
Overall Grade: B+
So if you are in the (Wilmington) neighborhood, and you are looking to bend the elbow at a good Irish pub, these 2 bars get the Paddy seal of approval.
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